Dales Way – Day 3

Burnsall to Hubbleholme – 16 miles

We went to the main house for breakfast and met three ladies who were also walking the Dales Way. During conversation, one lady owned up to having arthritic knees; she said it was fine albeit a bit slow at times. Soon we said our goodbyes and hoped to see them on the trail. As we left the breakfast room, we met an Italian couple outside were preparing to walk, they who had stayed in another part of the house. We chatted to them and found they were from Italy, also doing the Dales Way.

As we set off, the sun began to shine and as we’ve walked this section to Grassington a few times now there was no need for a map or guide books. The trail was quiet,

the river flowed gently and the reflections of the surface of the river were stunning.

We met just the few walkers on the trail taking in the peace and quiet before the day became busy. At Grassington we decided to stop for morning coffee

as it was so quiet in the village. Steve wanted to post some cards and it was also a good time to phone home. After coffee we purchased sandwiches for lunch from the local bakery and planned to take a lunch break on Conistone Pie, overlooking Kilnsey Crag and Kettlewell. With the weather being so nice, we should get some good views. As we left Grassington and headed up into the hills,

the temperature was now even hotter than before. There’s no shelter on the tops and with a breeze blowing it seemed to cool us down, but the danger was that we could get sunburnt so I thought we may need to cover up later when we stop.

At Conistone Pie,

the views were fantastic, with 180 degrees of scenery looking back towards Burnsall one way, Kilsey Crag, Parsons Pulpit (538m) & Gordale Scar directly in front of us, then looking along the valley towards

Kettlewell/Hubbleholme – it was brilliant. Now boots off enjoying a quiet lunch and taking the obligatory photo when suddenly, climbing up on to Conistone Pie, were the two Italians arriving to have their lunch. They had seen us and thought it would be a good place to stop. By now we were ready to head to Kettlewell and having put our boots on we said our goodbyes again. We climbed down off the rocks and soon got back onto the trail. It wasn’t long after then that we saw the three ladies

from this morning at breakfast, plus the walker we’d met the other day at Addingham, all resting. The lady with the arthritic knees was happy to take a breather as she said her knees were sore. We wished them a good day and were off again. Heading down off the hills and on to the road, Steve was able to do a little bird spotting. As we passed Scargill House, a Christian Retreat, we didn’t expect the low flying jets that appeared from nowhere, as they do. The noise was so loud; it was deafening which also made us jump. As we neared Kettlewell, Steve was a little apprehensive as a few years ago, whilst climbing over a stile, he’d slipped and broken his wrist, so we just took things steady and he was fine. By now we were thirsty again and thought we should stop at the cafe’ we’d used the last time we were in the area. As we arrived

we found it was too hot inside so we sat outside in the shade. Sitting back on the chairs, with our boots off, and drinking a very refreshing cup of tea was wonderful.

Soon we were on our way

for the final stretch of the day, crossing fields and the River Wharfe. We looked across the river towards Starbotton and Buckden as we passed by, until we came to Hubbleholm and our next resting place which, as luck would have it, was a traditional Dales pub with

thick stone walls, flagged floors, mullioned windows and oozing with character. We arrived to a reasonable welcome and before seeing our rooms had a lovely cool pint of well deserved Black Sheep beer.

We were then shown to our rooms, not before reserving a table for our evening meal, simply because there was no other eatery in the area. We adjourned to freshen up and arranged to meet later. The downside of the pub was that there was no Wifi nor mobile phone signal, so contacting home was out of the question.

The meal was reasonable and matched by the hospitality; it wasn’t long after the meal that we turned in for the night.

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