West Highland Way – Day 3

Rowardennan to Inverarnan – 14 miles

After breakfast and checking out we found the trail easily as it was just across from the hotel, shown by a WHW post. We went past the war memorial

then onto an unsurfaced road. As we reached Ptarmigan Lodge we headed uphill into the forest as the path alongside the loch is too dangerous due to erosion. We walked in the woods which was like an avenue of tall trees for as far as you could see. We made our way into the forest where we saw campers having breakfast, decamping or generally tidying the site after their night’s camp; all very pleasant people with their good morning ‘hellos’. The terrain was good, no boulders to worry about and wide enough to drive a tractor along which made it easy underfoot. The further we walked we could see many waterfalls, with breaks in the trees to give fantastic views of the loch below. It’s along this part of the path we expected to see wild goats and other animals, hopefully deer according to guide books, but we saw nothing apart from walkers and campers. We took the opportunity to talk to some people having a break and whilst chatting the Costas appeared, but continued to walk on ahead, exchanging greetings as they passed. We were soon to follow on after and upon arriving at Inversnaid where the Inversnaid Waterfalls suddenly appear,

we had another photo opportunity.

Here we removed our boots again and stopped for lunch

alongside the Costas group, whilst overlooking Loch Lomond. As we were eating more walkers appeared. 
After our break we set off alongside the loch. This time the path became a little more uneven and I had to clear some branches aside that got in our way !!

We had to climb over tree roots, wet boulders, muddy and narrow sections; walking poles were needed to help steady ourselves and to help with footings as we climbed. This section also claims to be the area, according to the guide book, where Rob Roy’s cave is. It’s not really a cave, more a crevice in the rocks. We passed it and as we had to be so careful on the path, this was probably the hardest section so far.

As we were now at the Doune Bothy

we caught up with a couple from Sweden who were looking around the building, wondering about its purpose. We explained, had a little look around ourselves, then continued on our way. We were now reaching the end of Loch Lomond, all 25 miles of it. As we were leaving the shore line it was another uphill walk and into a boggy area, so careful slow progress was made. The narrow trail now continued all the way towards Ben Glass Burn (stream) & Beinglas Farm campsite. Here we left the trail and headed towards our next accommodation, The Drovers Inn, which was about four hundred yards back along the A82. The Inn, established 1705, is an old Highland inn used by drovers who used to take cattle to market. The furniture and décor have barely changed, at least that’s how it felt. It is also reputed to have ghosts of the past drovers !

We found our room across the road from the inn, settled in, did our customary freshen up and reported to our respective homes to announce we had arrived safely. Then it was time for an aperitif before our evening meal and as we entered the pub there was the Costa Crowd having their usual pre-dinner drinks. After a brief chat we found a table and had a very filling meal and a pint before retiring for the night.

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