West Highland Way – Day 4

Inverarnan to Tyndrum – 12 miles

Today was wet as we had had overnight rain. We ate a hearty breakfast, put our luggage out ready to be moved on and kitted up. Then we were off to find the trail at Beinglass Farm and as we arrived there were the Costas having coffee. After another chat we found they were walking for a cancer charity and the oldest member of the group was sixty-nine years old. We set off leaving them to their coffee. The path again led off uphill – it seems that every time we start the day’s walk we have to go uphill! The terrain is still good with easy passing places for the faster walkers, there were more walkers out today. As we progressed further into the Highlands it felt like we were being surrounded by more and more mountains and were out in the wilderness.

We followed the path passing the Falls of Falloch to a narrow bridge under the railway and A82 trunk road before climbing a little on to an eighteenth century military road. As we walked we could look down onto the A82

seeing all the traffic zooming along and watching us from the other side of a wall were beasties! In the distance there were a few dark clouds looming which looked to be heading our way. We arrived at a junction where left took us to Tyndrum or right to Crianlarich. We headed to Crianlarich as Steve, who had been suffering with a cough, needed to replenish his medication. Passing through more forest there were lots of various coloured fungi all over the place. The steep path led down to Crianlarich & the A82 just opposite the railway station, which was an ideal place for lunch. Here we had the most well deserved pot tea anyone could wish for and the food was good as well. Whilst having lunch a few walkers came in but didn’t stay. We ventured out to find a pharmacy as advised by the tea shop owner and after purchasing medication we were off again to the trail. Guess what? It was up the steep hill to the junction we left earlier. Now at the junction it was through the deer gate (deer we have not yet seen) and uphill through a large conifer forest. The path was muddy in places although generally good underfoot. The sun was now making the walk more pleasant and the views of Ben More (3851ft) and Stob Binnein (3821ft) were incredible, but it was becoming obvious we were in midge territory so we needed to move on. At the bottom of the trail we had to cross the River Fillan and the A82 again. This took a while as the motorists didn’t want to let us cross this very busy road and we had to wait for a suitable gap in the traffic; drivers were easily doing in excess of 60mph. We eventually crossed at speed ourselves into a field which led up to St Fillains, named after an Irish missionary in the 7th century who came to Scotland to convert people to Christianity. The Way continues past the remains of an old priory and it was here I found I’d lost my pedometer. We followed the river to Tyndrum passing an old smeltery where nothing has grown here for 150 years. We decided that as the weather had warmed up it was time for refreshments before heading off to our accommodation. We later found The Glengarry B&B 800yds before Tyndrum and received a lovely warm welcome from our hosts who invited us to have a cup of tea and slice of homemade ginger cake in the conservatory, with views overlooking the Grampians Mountains.

After our customary routine following a day’s walk our hosts ran us back to Tyndrum to their suggested eatery where I had a local dish of Cullen Skink (smoked haddock, onion and potato soup), followed by chilli pizza. We took a look around the town, only to meet the Costas at the local pub and discovered they intended to cover twenty miles the next day. Thinking we would not see them again, as we were walking just 10 miles, we wished them luck for the rest of the walk and then headed back to our accommodation.

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