Shap to Kirkby Stephen – 20.5 miles
At breakfast this morning was a team of Derbyshire firemen who were cycling the Coast 2 Coast for a children’s charity and today was to be their last day before returning to duty. We chatted a while, then they were off.
As we looked into the garden area we saw the couple we had met in Patterdale, the ones who suggested we walked alongside the lake as an alternative to the high level route.
After a quick freshen up it was 08:40 and we set off to find the path, which was at the opposite end of Shap. Passing through a small housing estate we found the bridge over the Settle to Carlisle railway and into pastures heading to another bridge to take us over the M6.
After crossing the motorway it was on to Hardendale Quarry; we could still hear the traffic in the distance.
Traversing fields we headed towards the hidden walled village of Oddendale. The weather now, compared to when we set off, looked like it was improving as the sun began to shine and the views kept improving; we could see for miles. As we headed south walking across the Westmorland Plateau, we came to one of many limestone pavements
until we arrived at Lyvennet Beck where we stopped a while for refreshments, as other fellow walkers passed by.
It was now onwards toward Robin Hood’s Grave. There were more limestone pavements until we reached a road leading to Crosby Ravensworth. Here we had a slight detour due to a misreading of the map but it only added an extra half hour to our walk and, hey, we’re still friends – at the moment! (It’s not a blameworthy culture, Mr Thomas, but I’m glad it wasn’t me navigating.) After correcting the error
we could see walkers in the distance and we followed them till we saw the sign to Orton.
Here we decided to avoid the village to make up some time and headed to Orton Scar; the views were awesome.
After an hour or so we decided to stop for lunch, the first time today when we sat down and removed our boots. The feeling of the feet cooling down was fantastic! Half an hour later we were off again towards Sunbiggin Tarn, crossing Ravenstone Dale Moor. It was here we had to stop in our tracks as a farmer was moving his flock of sheep to other pastures; there must have been a hundred sheep with a few lambs, guided by sheepdogs and helpers. We stood still as they passed, watching the dogs keep control.
We were now heading to Smardale Fell looking for the bridge and the final section of the day. As we were going across Ravenstone Dale Moor we met four women walkers who had become separated into two small groups. The rear party appeared tired but after a brief chat and a worthy rest they became one group again. It was hot in the afternoon sun, time for a little refreshment stop.
Now walking downhill we passed an old railway cottage
and then could see we had arrived at Smardale Bridge.
Here we stood taking in the scenery and making good use of our cameras. We crossed the bridge heading uphill (not what we wanted nearing the end of the day) when Lynn spotted Smardale Viaduct in the distance.
We walked on till we arrived at one of the many summits where the views were fabulous
and we could see Kirkby Stephen in the distance. We arrived at the end of the moor, climbed a stile and were met by a pony looking over a wall
at us.
After the obligatory ‘a-a-h-h-h-s’ and a stroke of its head, we looked around for the sign we had wanted to see all day. Then we saw it – Kirkby Stephen.
Crossing the field and under the railway bridge we had arrived. As we were heading down the narrow road towards a bungalow an elderly lady in her garden asked if we were walking the Coast 2 Coast. She was quite friendly and chatty, telling us which way we had to go to find our accommodation and suggesting places to eat. We said our goodbyes, thanked her for her assistance and walked into town to find our B&B.
We got there at 7:20pm after the longest day of the walk. Our host was very pleasant and welcoming, and whilst we settled in our rooms he brought us refreshing Old English lemonade; it was like nectar. We were soon refreshed after showers and phoned home as we knew our wives were concerned about today’s very long walk. We met up and discussed where to eat before painting the town red. After crossing the road to The Kings Arms Hotel for a celebratory drink or three, we headed to the Indian restaurant, as recommended by our host, before testing the pillows on our beds.